258: Colorado River Trip #66, May 19-23, 1986.

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#258: COLORADO RIVER TRIP #66
MAY 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 1986
May 19, Monday, 1986
Dick and Susie McCallum of Expeditions Inc. invited me to go along on a Colorado River trip from Lees Ferry to Phantom Ranch at this time of year. I was pleased and excited for the opportunity to go and accept because I could get a measured section of the Surprise Canyon Formation at mile 23 and maybe another section on the Bright Angel Trail on my way out. Since it was for only 5 days, I decided to go for it. Besides, I have not been down the river for two years now. Not only that, the flow is 50,000cfs and I’ve never been on that high of water before. At any rate, I felt like a tourist instead of a geologist for this trip as I wouldn’t have to do the cooking or cleaning or packing or rowing for a change. I considered this as a vacation, but I knew I would pitch in anyway.
I left the house and went over to Expeditions store in Flagstaff where we were to meet at 7:00am. There I got an ammo can and a river bag. Sleeping bags were already on the boats. It was 31 degrees and clear. We finally boarded a bus about 8:30am and left for Lees Ferry. There were 23 passengers including myself. 5 boats were rigged and waiting with 6 boatmen. The ferry was very crowded before we got there so Dick had the boats moved down to Paria Rapid. Dick rode up on the bus so he could drive a truck back.
We arrived about 10:00am and were loaded up and on the river by 10:30am. Since I was a non paying passenger, I rode on the baggage boat with a guy named Mike Baldyka. The other boatmen are Geoff Gourley (leader), Jeff Behan, Dennis Harris, Carol Fritzinger, and Larry Stevens. The river was clear and high and cold, 52 degrees and flowing about 40,000cfs. It was a clear warm day as we left. The boats were rouge river rafts, bright orange and 18 feet long. There was a large paddle boat I was in the baggage boat with Mike and this made for a very heavy raft. This is my second rowing trip, first was for 21 days in 1971.
It was strange not to man the oars but I was going along for the ride, so be it. As we drifted fast down the river on the high water, I asked Mike how many trips he had made. He replied this is his third and was now training to be a boatman. I’m not very comfortable in small boats on this river, especially as a passenger when I know how to run the rapids. But it was a bit unnerving to find that I trusted my safety to someone who didn’t have an idea what he was really doing on a high water level such as this. Well I decided that everyone has to start sometime and I hoped he learned fast.
We stopped for lunch at 6 Mile Wash. The beach was nearly all gone and it was very hot. Some people expressed a desire to try the paddle boat so that was gotten out and blown up. It’s the same size as the other boats but nothing in it except one foot strap to put your foot in while you paddle. There was much more room in the boat Mike and I were in and a space for bailing water out when the need came. When we finally got to Badger Rapid, I was a bit nervous but I knew the rocks should be covered with this much 3765
water so Mike couldn’t screw up here. I settled down once I saw the rapid for it was nearly washed out and plenty of room. The rocks that Susan hung up on and spent the night years ago were well covered and produced a large hole but not too bad. We were running behind the pack in case Mike screwed up anyway. I was surprised how wet that rapid was in these boats. I was soaked through and through and a foot of water was in the boat. There is a rubber floor with no outlet. It took some time to bail out the boat.
There was no such thing as a run in Badger; you could blinder through almost any place. I could see that this high water was going to be a real lesson to me. All the boats had feathered oars, not fixed. I don’t see how anyone can row a boat that way but each to his own.
Looking down river at small orange Expeditions boats ahead. Kaibab cliff on top, Toroweap slope and cliff below. CR1.6 5-19-86.
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Expedition boat, white beer bag in river behind. CR1.7 5-19-86.
Top of Brady Canyon Member of the Toroweap Formation, river right. CR1.8 5-19-86.
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Looking upriver from lunch stop on river right. CR1.9 5-19-86.
Lunch stop on small delta, river right. Orange Expedition boats. CR2.0 5-19-86.
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Looking down river at Toroweap/ Coconino Sandstone below Navajo Bridge, river right. CR4.4 5-19-86. 3769
Looking down river from 6 Mile Wash, river right. CR6.0 5-19-86.
Looking down river to Hermit Shale slope on river left. CR6.8 5-19-86.
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I was also surprised at how squirrelly the water was below the rapids with lots of whirlpools. At Ten Mile Rock I got a real since of how deep the river was. Only 2.5 feet of the top of the rock was sticking out of the river and the water was ramping up onto it and almost going over it. The paddle boat required 6 people to paddle and a rear helmsman to steer. Carol Fritzinger was the boatperson that staffed the boat and gave instructions to those paddling. There were a number of other trips on the river and the motor rigs began to pass us by. Other rowing trips kinda kept up or passed us or we would pass them. By the time we got to Soap Creek Rapid, I was much settled down and beginning to enjoy myself. The rapid was washed out but it had pretty big waves. I sure wished I had control of the boat but Mike seemed to be catching on despite the nearly 2 feet of water in the boat again. It was a hot day and getting soaked through and through was not as bad. The names of Brown and others on the ledge below the rapid were well under water. I noticed a river channel cut into the Esplanade here that was filled with red Hermit Shale. Funny I never noticed it before.
Top of 10 Mile Rock. CR10.2 5-19-86.
The next few miles were of many huge swirling whirlpools and they would twist and turn the boat in hundreds of circles. Some were so powerful that they would suck the boat down on one side and water would rush in and I would have to bail again on what normally should have been a quiet stretch of river. The current was speeding by at about 8 to 10 mph or more. I began to worry about House Rock remembering the hair experience as a passenger with Hatch back in 68 on a bigger boat. The group decided to stop there and hike up a short ways into Rider Canyon. So we pulled in above Rider Canyon and much to my surprise, the river was backed up into the canyon about 200 feet. There was no rock island and no beach and not much of a rapid. The rapid was washed out and hardly more than a riffle. What a change! We hiked up to the top of the 3771
Esplanade Sandstone and came back. There were some stagnate pools of greenish water in the canyon.
Looking up river at Esplanade Sandstone cliffs. CR15.0 5-19-86.
U shaped unconformity channel between Esplanade Sandstone (top) and Supai rocks below. Upstream of House Rock Rapids, river left. CR16.7 5-19-86. 3772
Looking down at House Rock Rapids and what used to be a camp site where rapids are now. Mouth of Rider Canyon. CR17.0 5-19-86.
River is backed up into Rider Canyon. CR17.1 5-19-86.
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Looking out of Rider Canyon at the Colorado River. CR17.1 5-19-86.
Looking east out of Rider Canyon at the eastern wall of Marble Canyon across the river. CR17.1 5-19-86.
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Looking back at House Rock Rapids at 50,000cfs. CR17.2 5-19-86.
Back at the river I still couldn’t get over how it was wall to wall water and hardly any rapid at all. To think I’ve camped here many times under the present river. Just below House Rock Rapid is a breccia pipe on the east wall in the Esplanade Sandstone that is bleached with visible breccia, about ½ mile below the rapid at mile 17.4. I forgot to mention that Shear Wall Rapids was hardly even a riffle and all wall to wall water. The big rock below Shear Wall was completely covered and hardly noticeable. Just before Boulder Narrows there is a small collapse structure on the left bank (east side) in the Manakacha rocks and another larger collapse structure just below Boulder Narrows on the left again (mile 18.5 and 18.8). Someone had taken the planned camp at mile 20 on the left so we made camp at North Canyon on the right side, mile 20.5. A Hatch group was already camped at lower North Canyon so we squeezed in on upper North Canyon and several people bedded down in the canyon.
I hiked up North Canyon as far as you can go and its walled out in the upper Esplanade Sandstone so no way out of this canyon up the streambed. Ice pools of water filled with frogs. At Boulder Narrows the river was ramping up onto the huge boulder that still has the old driftwood on top. About 14 feet of the boulder was still out of the river. A few high clouds today and calm and hot. High today was 92 on the river. We even had a water fight to cool off some back up river a ways.
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Looking out of North Canyon to east wall of Marble Canyon. CR20.8 5-19-86.
Tonight I saw something I had not seen before; the moon was nearly full and our camp was directly across the river from the moon rise. The top of 20 Mile Rapid happened to be in that spot. The entire group was mesmerized by the lightning in the rapid. It looked like the rapid was having one hell of a thunderstorm with brilliant flashes of lightning shooting through the rapid in weird streaks. They appeared much brighter then the moon and we considered for awhile that it was not the moon light. However, the moon was shining on the rapid, so it had to be the moon. The most brilliant light I have ever seen in water. Walked 1.5 miles today.
May 20, Tuesday, 1986
Low last night was a warm 70 degrees and some high clouds. Again today I ride with Mike Baldyka in the baggage boat. Larry has published a new Colorado River Guide about two years ago and is doing well on that. Mike and I leave early while the rest of the group hike up North Canyon. I have a section of Surprise Canyon Formation I want to measure at 23 Mile Rapid so off I go.
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Upper camp at North Canyon, river right. Hatch is camped at lower camp below. CR20.8 5-20-86.
This is the upper camp at North Canyon, river right. CR20.8 5-20-86.
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It was still shady and cool at 8:00am as we went through 20 Mile Rapid and of course getting plenty wet. Mike was beginning to get the hang of it though even if there was a foot of water in the boat to bail out. I nearly got it all bailed out as we entered 21 Mile Rapids and I lost the bail bucket, but we had one extra and so I spent most of the time to 23 Mile Rapids bailing the boat out.
We pulled in on the north (right) side just above 23 Mile Rapids and there I scrambled over a rock pile to the exposed Surprise Canyon section above the Redwall at the base of the Rapid. It’s a nice red slope at the base of the rapid where the water rams into the Redwall Limestone. There is a channel cut into the Redwall filled with Surprise Canyon rocks. Mike took a bath upstream while I measured the rock section. It’s mostly a mudstone and siltstone with black algae stromatolites coated with iron. The contact with the Watahomigi Formation is well defined at a purple limestone with red and white chert bands. Total thickness of the section is 59 feet. I helped McKee measure this section before it was known to be the Surprise Canyon Formation back in 1972.
Looking at the red Surprise Canyon section above the Redwall Limestone above the base of 23 Mile Rapids. View from river left. CR23.1 5-20-86.
I noted that the river did not drop at all last night. About an hour later the rest of the group came along and we joined them. I found an old Gilbeys Gin bottle in a driftwood pile about 40 feet above the present river level and gave it to Mike. We stopped briefly to look at 24.5 Mile Rapids and it didn’t look too bad. Mike and I were last again and we did ok but the boat really filled up with water and both of us were thoroughly soaked. Waves were up to 10 feet high, a bit bigger then I through it would be. The whirl pools were the worst part. I was knee deep in water in the boat and Mike 3778
couldn’t move it very well as we entered 25 Mile Rapid. We quickly filled the boat on up with water and I had my work cut out bailing. Again the whirl pools were something else.
At Cave Spring Rapids I nearly had the boat bailed only to put half the river back in again. The whirlpools here below the rapid are very large and at one time we went into one and couldn’t see out very well. Our heads were at river level as we swirled around and around. By the time we got to 27 Mile Rapids I had the boat empty and my back was sore from bailing. The waves in 25 Mile Rapid was up to 10 feet high also. Some of the whirl pools below Cave Spring Rapid were easily 5 or more feet deep.
Near the top of the Redwall on the north side about 27.4 Mile I saw a cave filled with Surprise Canyon rocks. We stopped at South Canyon for lunch and a short hike. Most of the beach was gone and under the river. We hiked over to Stanton’s Cave and up to the iron gate. The wind was picking up now to gusts of 35 mph or more. Lots of blowing sand on the slopes.
Cavern in the Redwall Limestone filled with red Surprise Canyon Formation near the top of 27 Mile Rapids, river right. CR27.0 5-20-86.
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Looking up river at trail going up into South Canyon on river right (left side of photo). CR31.7 5-20-86.
Looking down river to Vasey’s Spring on river right. No middle river gravel island in this high water. CR31.7 5-20-86. 3780
We drifted on down to Redwall Cavern and did not stop at Vaseys Spring as the current was too strong but we did stop above and hiked up into Stanton’s Cave. The island opposite Vaseys was covered. We stopped at Redwall Cavern and looked around for a short while. There is about 10 feet of beach still exposed above the water line. A few high clouds drifted over from time to time. We drifted on down the river to camp. I noticed all the caves in the Redwall are on a strong lineation of joints and fractures that cross the river several times in the next few miles that parallel the Fence Fault. Before the Colorado River cut down this low, you could get a first rate water well if the drill happened to hit this 600 foot wide joint system I call it the 36 Mile joint system. I saw more caves filled with Surprise Canyon sediment high on the Redwall cliff on the north (right) side at mile 38. The wind was very strong at times but the current was stronger and we made good time to camp at Buck Farm Canyon, north side, mile 41. Camp was on the upper beach, the lower beach was gone. We had a fish dinner last night and chicken dinner tonight. Also lots of firewood that Carol brought along. High today was 88 degrees and windy.
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Looking out of Stanton’s Cave. CR32.0 5-20-86.
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Looking up river. CR29.8 5-20-86. 3783
Looking out and upriver from Redwall Cavern. CR33.2 5-20-86.
Rowing down the river, looking at the tea pot, river right. CR33.9 5-20-86.
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Rowing down to the ghost castle, karst caverns in the Redwall Limestone, river right. CR36.0 5-20-86.
The Ghost Castle, karst caverns in Redwall Limestone, river right. CR36.0 5-20-86. 3785
Dolomite of the Temple Butte Formation filling Devonian channel eroded into underlying Muav Limestone, overlain by Redwall Limestone, river left. CR38.3 5-20-86.
Dolomite of Temple Butte Formation filling Devonian channel eroded into underlying Muav Limestone, overlain by Redwall Limestone, view back at river left. CR38.8 5-20-86. 3786
May 21, Wednesday, 1986
A windy night. Low last night was 75 degrees. I slept with my shorts, socks, and a T shirt on top of the bag all night. A huge mouse of some kind ran across me during the night from my belt on up my chest and stomped on my face and woke me up, but that’s all. It was slightly overcast this morning. River did not drop at all. We were on the river by 9:00am.
Redbud Alcove, river right. CR39.2 5-21-86.
We drifted down to mile 43 and stopped on the south (left) bank and walked up a small drainage that had flooded in the not too distant past and Larry showed us some Indian ruins under the Muav cliff. We were opposite the Indian Bridge up to Point Hansbrough. First time I knew of these ruins; learn something new every trip.
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Old Indian bridge high up on river right at contact of Muav and Redwall. CR43.3 5-21-86.
Old Indian ruins under Muav ledges, river left. CR43.3 5-21-86.
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Flood debris on river left. CR43.3 5-21-86.
Royal Arches, river right. CR41.9 5-21-86.
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We went on down and ran President Harding Rapid. Mike ran the left side which I have not done before. I could see if you tried the usual right side you might not make it past the hole created by the big rock as the river was going well over the rock. Mike was going very well and I was having a lot more confidence in him. The wind was steadily increasing and making a real nuisance of itself. We stopped at Saddle Canyon for a hike. There I met an old buddy of mine, Kenton Grua with the Dories as they were leaving the area. He was getting married this summer. Reagan Dale was there also. Good to see them again.
I hiked up the trail into Saddle Canyon. Never have been on this trail since it was built; we used to go up the main drainage and boulder climb years ago. Everything changes I guess. The mesquite trees are doing very well on the huge delta below. Winds were gusting to well over 40 mph and sand and dust was blowing everywhere. Also lots of noises from the wind on the canyon walls like a constant freight trail going through. By the time we started off again I’m certain the winds were blowing in excess of 50 mph because water spray was blowing up on to the beaches. This time it was my turn in the paddle boat as they needed some none tired people to battle the wind. It was a real job paddling against the wind and of course it always blows upstream no matter which way the river turns. If it wasn’t for the strong current, we would get nowhere. I was up front and their really isn’t much to hang onto but in the small rapids I was the one who got the wettest again because of the wind spray. My back began to get very sore as its an awkward angle to paddle. Fritz was doing a good job trying to get us all to pull together and steer the boat as well. We were going to camp at Little Nankoweap but it was only 3:00pm so we elected to go on down someplace if the wind would let us. So we paddled on through Nankoweap Rapid which wasn’t much. Mike was on his own and doing well.
Looking down on Saddle Canyon delta and up river. CR47.5. 5-21-86. 3790
Looking upriver from trail into Saddle Canyon, river right. CR47.5 5-21-86.
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Looking at north wall of Saddle Canyon at two Devonian channels filled with purplish dolomite of the Temple Butte Formation. Old river channel meandered channel as exposed in wall. CR47.5 5-21-86.
We ran Kwagunt Rapid which was pretty good size and it was fun and wet. We finally made camp at Malgosa Canyon on the north side, mile 57.5. I helped Mike and Larry cook Mexican dinner tonight. Mainly I held the table and everything onto it from the high winds. The cold front decided to pass through about supper time as usual and the wind gusts were well over 60 mph. The kitchen was on the wet beach with our backs to the wind and the river spray was soaking us. Sand blew up from the higher beach and on up into the others higher up the beach and litterly covered the entire area with layers of sand. I could not see anyone at times in the blinding sandstorms. I believe even the fish in the river were hugging the rocks on the bottom of the river to stay put. We decided to wait until the front passed but who knows when that will be. We finally ate supper near dark and the wind was not quieting down much with an occasional gust or two up to 40 mph and much cooler temps. The high clouds were still with us but no rain. We had three gallons of margaritas that Mike made up and that kept everyone happy. High today on the river was only 84 degrees but up to 92 in the side canyons. Walked a half mile or so today.
May 22, Thursday, 1986
Low last night was 58 degrees and calm after sunset. Some high clouds all night but not much to speak of. A much cooler night though. I went back in the boat with Mike again today after a breakfast of left over Mexican food.
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Breakfast on Kwagunt beach below rapids. CR57.9 5-22-86.
Green Bright Angel Shale capped by brown travertine. Looking up river at river left. CR58.8 5-22-86.
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Looking up the Little Colorado River spring water. CR61.8 5-22-86. 3794
We were off just before 8:00am. It was cold in the rapids but not much wind. I rowed the boat for awhile and pulled into the blue waters of the Little Colorado. I was surprised to find that this boat, like the others, was very heavy and I could barely move it. The high water was going over the upper end of the junction island but the lower part was still about 7 feet out of the river. The blue water was backed up into the Little Colorado River about a ¼ mile or more up past life jacket rapid we used to float in. There is a wood beam about 10 inches in diameter still stuck in the travertine boulder and the river water was backed up past that and nearly up to it.
Here we took a hike up the Little Colorado. People were talking of going up to the Sipapu but I was not sure if they all would make it that far. I wore cutoffs today and decided to leave them on since I figured we would not be going that far. Two hours later, most everyone was at the Sipapu. I was getting burned legs at this time and I was the first one back. A nice hike but hot. All but 4 people made it including boat persons. There were some new feathers on sticks in the Sipapu and the yellow bubbling water was much higher in the hole than it used to be. It’s within 6 feet of the top, must be plugging itself up where it leaks into the river.
One mile up the Little Colorado from river junction. 5-22-86.
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Travertine dams in Little Colorado River about 2 miles up from junction. 5-22-86.
Looking down Little Colorado River at travertine cliff over Bright Angel Shale about 2 miles up from junction. 5-22-86.
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Travertine rapids in Little Colorado River about 4 miles up from river junction. 5-22-86.
Looking upstream of Little Colorado at Sipapu on east bank, about 4.75 miles up from river junction. 5-22-86.
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The Sipapu, east bank of Little Colorado River. An
iron stained travertine mound from a deep seated spring. 5-22-86.
Iron stained travertine on Sipapu. 5-22-86. 3798
Rusty iron and sulfur water leaking out of west side of Sipapu. 5-22-86.
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Looking down Little Colorado river from top of Sipapu. 5-22-86.
I was back at the boats in an hour and a half but too late to stop the intense sun burn on my legs. I saw several large carp up the river. Water temperature of the Little Colorado was 67 degrees. We left the Little Colorado at 3:00pm and headed on down to find a camp. I was with Mike again. Very large whirlpools for the next two miles below the river junctions. Another 8 feet higher and the river would be in the Hopi Salt Mines. The whirlpools were something else and water would roar into the boat from time to time. We made camp below Basalt Canyon on the lower beach around a sharp bend of the river on the north side, Mile 69.7. There is a large willow tree for shade here. Some high clouds and lots of haze and smog from LA or forest fires someplace. Some high clouds most of the day and hot; high today was 92 on the river and not much wind. Hiked 9.5 miles today. Had badly sun burned legs at camp.
May 23, Friday, 1986
Low was 67 degrees and calm and some high clouds. We were off about 8:00am. River level was still the same 50,000cfs. I was with Mike again. By now he was really getting the hang of it but I would still feet better with my hands on the oars. We stopped at upper Unkar to look at the Indian ruins on Unkar delta. Lots of mosquitoes here. Never used to be any here before. Larry says a new strain adapted to cold water on the north rim is beginning to take over along the river in places. We went through Unkar Rapid with no problem other than a good soaking in the lower part and of course my usual exercise bailing water. The same thing in Nevills Rapids (75 Mile Rapid).
We stopped at Hance and there were other row boats there looking it over also. Another group of oar boats joined us as well. We were all clearly nervous as we watched two people get washed out of a boat on another trip. The big rocks at the top of the rapids were all covered. What a BIG rapid in this high water. We started left and rowed hard to the center to avoid a hole on the upper left. Then you have to row a hard 3800
left to stay in the center away from the large waves on the right. Mike and I were the third of our group to go. Mike peed several times before going and was ready. I was a bit nervous to say the least. Mike did a great job missing the holes at the top and made a great run but we went over into the big stuff on the right because the boat was full of water and just too heavy for him to move it. So we submarined through the 15 foot waves. I was nearly thrown out once as I became air borne when dropping over one of the huge waves. But I stayed in the boat with a pretty firm grip on the rope that a truck couldn’t take away from me. We made it and it was a great relief to get through. Everyone made a good run except Fritz; she went out of the paddle boat and somehow managed to get swept back in. She did ok though.
We ran Sockdollager and Grapevine ok but lots of water as usual. By the time we reached Phantom Ranch I was tired of bailing. This is the wettest river trip I have ever been on. There was no camp at Grapevine above the rapid, no beach at all. We had lunch at the beach near the upper mule bridge and all made ready for the hike out. My pack weighed about 30 pounds by the time I was ready.
I started out a little after 2:00pm and crossed the lower bridge. Everyone sorta went at there own pace and we were scattered out quite a lot. A new group of 28 people were to meet the boats tomorrow. I had a good time on the river and felt I had made some new friends. It was a very hot hike along the river to Pipe Creek. Temperature was 98 degrees in the shade. At Pipe Creek I soaked down my shirt and drank lots of water. I had a half gallon with me and drank that before starting up Pipe Creek. I was surprised at how many people were hiking around down here. Many were from a motor boat trip and several from a Dory trip as well as just plain hikers. The heat was real bad for me but I kept going at a steady pace knowing at would get cooler as I climbed, about 5 degrees every 1,000 feet up.
By the time I reached Indian Gardens I was beginning to get my second wind and some blisters. There were some other people there that were sick and throwing up from the heat. There are a lot more trees here now than ever used to be. I kept my shirt wet and my hat wet as well and kept plodding on. At least the shade from the west wall of the canyon finally covered the trail. There was water at 3 mile house and at 1.5 mile house and a good thing too.
I was in the lead of our group as others began to slow down and most were not far behind. It got much cooler up in the Coconino level and it was getting late. My pack had finally grooved itself into my shoulders so that I no longer noticed it but my sunburned legs were throbbing as they began to swell. The only real problem I was having was the blisters on my feet. I had plenty of power and actually felt pretty good. Near the top of the Coconino I heard familiar voices. Ryan was the first one I saw and then Marijka and then Susan. Susan carried my pack on out for me which I really appreciated. Ryan is 9 now and Marijka just turned 7 and it was good to see them. We were out before it got dark by7:30pm. Nearly 6 hours to hike out from Phantom. Only 10 miles now. We ate supper at Tusayan and drove on home by 10:00pm. A very nice trip and it was a great break from the office. Walked 22 miles this trip.