87: Colorado River Trip #6, July 3-12, 1971

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#87: COLORADO RIVER TRIP #6
JULY 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 1971
July 2, Friday, 1971
We rigged out two boats yesterday, very hot, 113 degrees at Lees Ferry. Today I’m taking it easy. Perry Thompson and his wife Rosemary were going with us. It’s another very hot day and there are some clouds in the south. Maybe get some storms this time. We leave tomorrow. Perry had invited me, Marty, and OC up to his house for another one on one quick basketball game. We played for about an hour and a half. It was hot but fun. I played in my combat boots and got very sore feet from them rubbing and also some blisters. We showered up at his house and then had hamburgers and salad and other things. High today was 105, much cooler.
July 3, Saturday, 1971
There were lots of people around this morning. Low was 68 degrees at river level. Fairly high water. We loaded up more junk and waited for the bus. Perry said that over the radio that they were gonna shut down the water to about 3,000 cubic foot per second (cfs). That’s very low water. Well it starts tomorrow Sunday morning, mainly Monday. We should get low water Monday through possibly Wednesday. They finally came and we wasted no time getting on the river by 1:00pm. 23 people plus the four of us. John Sohrweide is the leader, O’Conner Dale is the second boatman, me as the assistant boatman, Marty Schnuer is the helper. We stopped for lunch on the west side just below Navajo Bridge. We were attacked by hoards of mosquitoes. Ran Badger Rapid, no problem. John ran Soap Creek ok which was pretty big. Some clouds and wind about 15 mph. Just before camp I was getting a drink and lost my tin cup in the river. Makes three so far. Getting to be ridiculous. Had to change into tennis shoes since my feet were sore from blisters, Skin is rubbed raw and my feet were cracked deep and bleeding from cracks in wet hot boots High today was 102 on the river, so it was 112 higher up above the beaches.
July 4, Sunday, 1971
The moon was ¾ full last night and was bright. Wind blew most of the night up canyon about an average of 8 mph. Low last night was 77 degrees near river level. We were on our way by 7:15 am. We stopped at Shinumo Wash and climbed up to Silver Grotto. Many people were afraid of the rope but most made the climb. It’s not easy, especially coming out when yer feet are wet on that slick limestone. One boy fell 15 feet and landed on his back and nearly broke his head. Scared the heck out of us. My cup is still in that second pool. The boy was ok but sore and scared.
I ran several rapids today. We stopped at Redwall Cavern and had a small football game. We went on down to the same small dripping springs in the alcove we hit last trip and had lunch west side at mile 35. We stopped at Bert Lopers boat for a while. Last trip we hiked up Buck Farm Canyon and took some showers in the dripping springs. 1396
We went on. I ran President Harding again and got revenge. However I made it through ok but did a 360 below in the back eddy. It was a close call though. Got some good helpers on this trip. We camped on Eminence Break again on north side at mile 50. High today was 98 at river level. Some wind at times but clear. River temp at Buck Farm Canyon today was 54 degrees. One girl brought 2 fire crackers and one sky rocket for the 4th. We celebrated with those. The river has really dropped at camp and the boats were left up on rocks. It was really low, could almost walk across in the moon light. It was almost a full moon and it had a double ring around it. High overcast tonight.
The western towers of Redwall above camp. CR50.0. 7-5-71.
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Looking down river toward Cape Solitude, east rim of Grand Canyon. CR59.0. 7-5-71.
July 5, Monday, 1971
I was up about 6:00am. Some high overcast. Low was 72 at river level. We were on our way by 8:00am. We drifted most of the morning. It was a very nice quiet morning. We stopped at Little Colorado and it was still blue. Only 10 other people there this time. We had lunch near the Hopi Salt Mines on the east side.
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Looking upriver at the salt cliff. An encrustation of salt, calcite, and gypsum from seep springs coming out of the Tapeats Sandstone, river left. CR62.8. 7-5-71.
Hollow salt stalactites, about finger size in diameter, forming from dripping salt springs that originates from the Tapeats Sandstone near Hopi Salt Mines. CR62.8. 7-5-71. 1399
Hollow salt stalactite straws with salt water drips that grow the tubes. Salt springs in the Tapeats Sandstone, river left. CR62.8. 7-5-71.
I drove on down to Lava Canyon Rapids and we stopped below the rapids for a hike up Lava Canyon. Most everyone hiked up Lava Canyon to where the spring starts. To my surprise the canyon was dry except up near the spring at the Butte Fault. Dried moss told the tale of water that ran down this canyon not too long ago. Boy this canyon is really dry now. The Butte Fault was something to see up there. That was where the water was. It was 106 degrees up there; 97 at the river. I looked in that old mine on the on the west side of the river at the fault. No trace of minerals there. The drift goes in and makes a right angle bend of 90 degrees and is only about 90 feet long. 1400
Small spring, almost dry, about two miles up Lava Canyon near Butte Fault. CR66.0. 7-5-71.
Folded Precambrian Chuar rocks against the Butte Fault, north side of Lava Canyon. CR 66.0. 7-5-71. 1401
Looking south along Butte Fault about 2 miles up Lava Canyon. CR66.0. 7-5-71. 1402
Salt seep in a synclinal structure in the Precambrian Chuar Formation, north side of Lava Canyon. CR66.0. 7-5-71.
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Nearly dry spring in Lava Canyon just upstream of Butte Fault. Note people in lower left for scale. CR66.0. 7-5-71.
Lava Canyon drainage crosses Butte Fault. Note old copper mine dump on south side of Lava Canyon on the fault near white spot. CR66.0. 7-5-71.
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Drying spring water in Lava Canyon about a mile up from the river. Red rock is Dox Sandstone. CR66.0. 7-5-71.
We went on down river and John ran Unkar Rapid. Camped at 75 Mile beach, south side. We had a jump rope contest. The river was really low but we expected it to rise in the morning. There was some wind at times and a thin overcast most of the day but hot. High today was 106 off the river. The water up Lava Canyon is very salty and full of alkali. No can drink.
July 6, Tuesday, 1971
I woke up to very low water this morning, probably about 3,000 cfs. We took our time with breakfast and let people sleep in. Low was 82 degrees at river level. Overcast most of the night. Looks like a low pressure or something moving in. The river was so low that there was no way to run through 75 Mile Rapid. It was almost all boulders all the way across. We knew we couldn’t run Hance Rapid until around noon if the water came up. The water had dropped 11 feet. There was a wind most of the night blowing up canyon about 5 to 10 mph. Everyone was covered in sand.
We finally left about 9:30am. Water was coming up fast now. We stopped at Red Canyon and hiked up a short distance. Saw Hatch and Western go through Hance Rapid. Very rough and lots of boulders. Hance had built a cabin up on the east side of the creek in Red Canyon where he had tourist stay. Never knew this was here. Still lots of junk lying around and a stove. We finally went through Hance starting on the right and powering across the middle to the left side. We did ok. OC knocked a skag off his engine, the lower fin.
We stopped at Phantom and left two people there who were hiking out today. We picked up 7 more. It was a very cloudy day and looked like a winter storm. Heavy 1405
clouds were building up over Hermit Creek area. We left after lunch and went on down. River was still very low and not gonna get any higher. Horn Rapid is a small water fall of about 10 feet and it was very rough. A very scary drop. A large thunderstorm was in progress over Hermit Creek area and I expected to get good and wet. I could see a wind coming up the river just before we reached Granite Falls Rapid. We started down the rapid just as terrific gusts of wind blew up the rapid with tons of water spraying back over the boat. No one could see anything. Also a bunch of heavy rain drops were falling. In the middle of the rapid I thought the boat would flip over. We had no idea how or where we were going. The wind was hitting about 45 to 50 mph and the spray and rain felt like hail. This must be what its like to be in a hurricane in the middle of a rough ocean. We went sideways and nearly flipped everyone off. Barely made it around a rock island below the rapid and then pulled over to a beach and waited for the storm to blow over. OC did the same thing and nearly ran into the wall in Granite. Everyone was soaked to the bone. Then the rain came down in sheets everywhere and thunder and lightning played around the cliffs. Little waterfalls were forming everywhere. I measured the temperature of the warm rain and it was 76 degrees. By the end of the storm it had dropped down to 71. That was as cool as it got. A beautiful storm. Rained about 40/100. There was no shelter during the storm so everyone just stood out in the rain. We then pushed on and I ran Hermit again. It was low water so not a big ride, only 10 to 12 footers. We camped at mile 96 below Hermit on south side. Light sprinkles and cloudy rest of night. Wet sand for sleeping tonight. The humidity was up high now. High today was 95 degrees at river level near Phantom.
July 7, Wednesday, 1971
It was a cold night and damp. Sand was pretty wet. Low was 69 degrees at river level. River was way low again. We ran Crystal ok. OC did hang up on a boulder for a few minutes. It was a clear morning but could see moisture in the air. By 10:00am the clouds began to build. I ran most of the jewels and ran into a wall once. Had lunch and a swim at Elves Chasm. Clouds are not gonna amount to much today; a west wind blowing upstairs. Should be clear tomorrow. Seemed like a low pressure went through yesterday. Somewhat windy in Conquistador Isle. I ran from Fossil on down to Bedrock. Water was climbing fast now. A light sprinkle hit just before we reached Bedrock. We ran the left side and middle of Dubendorff. A good ride. We camped on the north side just below Dubendorff at mile 132. It was early so a football game was under way. I hiked up Stone Creek with a few people and took a shower in the falls about 300 yards up from the river. It was low water but still a bunch coming down. Water temperature in Stone Creek was 80 degrees. While I was way up Stone Creek, a light shower came and fell on camp and Stone Creek and no where else. Sky was clearing fast and drying out. Quiet and nice up Stone Creek. A good jungle there also. There is a second falls about 10 feet high above the first one we showered in. I climbed up that one. A small trail leads up and around both falls on the right side of the creek as you go up. The first falls is 15 feet. Another set of falls lies much further up the canyon but I didn’t get that far. Only liked up one mile. High today was 98 at river level.
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Going down lower Dubendorff Rapids, heading for camp at bottom, river right. CR132.0. 7-7-71.
Stone Creek Falls near camp. CR132.0. 7-7-71. 1407
Stone Creek Falls in Stone Creek Canyon near Dubendorff camp. CR132.0. 7-7-71.
Morning camp on lower beach below Dubendorff Rapid, river right. CR132.3.
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Morning view upriver at Dubendorff Rapids. CR132.3. 7-8-71.
July 8, Thursday, 1971
Got up three times last night to push boats into the river. Water was getting way low again. A bright moon, full, all night. Beautiful night and crystal clear. Low was 68 degrees near river. We saw two big horn rams on the south side of the river near the river at mile 133. Further on we saw Tour West boats high and dry about 10 feet from the river. They didn’t wake up last night. They said they were gonna hike up Tapeats Creek anyway which is where they were. I hit a rock in Tapeats Rapid but not bad. Clear day. We stopped at Christmas tree cave and looked at the Christmas tree inside which is a travertine stalactite with lots of globs of travertine on it. Lots of bat shit also. The cave is in the granite just past where you enter the Little Granite Gorge narrows. I led a hike up into Deer Valley. We spent a few hours up there. 21 people came with me. Water temp in Deer Creek was 64 degrees. The water level was also getting low. We finally went on down the river and camped on the north side on some rock ledges at mile 152. There is a travertine spring there that drips water which is so hard it bounces. High today was 106 above river level. We slept on hard smooth layers of flat rock of the Peach Springs Member of the Muav Limestone. Same as if we were camping at Supai. 1409
Hiking up the hot Deer Creek Trail just west of Deer Creek Falls, going to Deer Creek Valley. CR136.8. 7-8-71.
Looking from near top of Deer Creek Falls to boats parked below at Deer Creek Falls beach. CR136.8. 7-8-71. 1410
Looking into the mouth of Matkatamiba Canyon on river left. CR148.3. 7-8-71.
Monocline fold in Matkatamiba Canyon. CR148.3. 7-8-71.
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Me (George) driving boat backwards past hole in Upset Rapid. John Sohrweide riding with me. CR150.2. 7-8-71.
Ledges Camp or Last Chance Camp on river right upstream of Havasu Canyon. CR156.2. 7-8-71. 1412
July 9, Friday, 1971
It was a clear warm night. Low was 84 degrees at river level. River temp was 60 degrees. We stopped at Havasu for 3.5 hours and let some people hike around. Lots of carp and trout fish swimming around at the mouth of the creek. Seems to be the same amount of water here as always. On down the canyon I noted that there are two boundaries in the base of the Devonian rock unit. Same as I measured in Tuckup two years ago. I’m almost sure there is another formation in there. It was a windy afternoon, 15 to 20 mph upriver wind. Clear day. Just before reaching Lava Falls at mile 178 on the north side, there is a lava sill about 2 feet thick and a lava dike going all the way to the top of the Redwall about 7 inches wide. Never noticed those before. Lava rapids were a real low boiling mess. John let me run lava, my first time. Then the engine cavatated and I lost control. We went into the first hole somewhat ok. I then got the boat straight but I was too far right, so I was giving full power to the left but not going anywhere. The second V wave hit us full force somewhat sideways. I smashed into John nearly knocking him out of the boat and tons of water washed over us. The engine was sputtering and I had a time keeping it running and got the boat straight just in time for the third hole which was a boat flipper. We made it through and the engine was still going. I was way too far right all the way through for the last part. Only 5 feet from ripping the boat on those rocks. Exciting ride. OC did ok. We camped below lava on the north side at mile 179.75. A football game was started to celebrate making it through Lava Falls and all joined in for a good game. High today was 102 on the river, 112 off the river. Water warmed up to 61 degrees. Clear day.
Looking upriver to Vulcan’s Anvil, a basalt plug or dike in the river. CR179.0. 7-9-71. 1413
A basalt lava sill in Tapeats Sandstone just upstream of Lava Falls Rapids on river right. CR179.3. 7-9-71.
Examining the basalt lava sill that squirted in between layers of the Tapeats Sandstone, river right above Lava Falls Rapids. CR179.3. 7-9-71. 1414
Looking down at Lava Falls Rapids from river right. V-wave hole in center and third hole near black rock at bottom right of rapid. CR179.5. 7-9-71.
July 10, Saturday, 1971
It was a warm windy night. I was sitting on a rock just thinking and watching the river and the next thing I knew I was nearly covered in sand near that rock. It was about 3:00am when I woke up. Wind was blowing 10 to 20 mph. Everyone had a layer of sand on them by sunrise. Wind blew upriver. It was a hot night. At 10:00pm last night it was 101 degrees at river level. Low this morning was 80 at river level. By the time we just finished breakfast the river turned bright red. I figured mud from the storms two days ago just came from the Little Colorado River. Later I was proved wrong. There was a cloud burst on the Vermilion Cliffs and that was where the red mud came from. Anyway we got ahead of it shortly. We pushed hard all day since we had a long ways to go. I ran some and John ran some. Saw 9 wild burros today all on the north side. Two baby black ones. We had a quick lunch at mile 113 at Pumpkin Spring. It was dam hot on the river. Temp was 108 off river. Spring water was 88 degrees. We pushed on to travertine grotto and went for a quick swim. Water temp there was 74 degrees. I ran the last rapids from Diamond Creek on down to Bridge City, did ok. We made camp at Bridge City, south side at mile 238.5. Temperature was 108 on the river, 119 off the river. A very hot wind blew most of the afternoon averaging 35 mph, upriver. No matter which way the river turns, the wind always blows up the river. It was a clear day. Just before I got to Bridge Rapid, a power boat came up the rapid. Almost flipped over but they went on past us. There were 3 fools in it. 1415
Co2 gas bubbles in Pumpkin Spring. CR213.2. 7-10-71.
Looking into Trail Canyon from the river. CR219.6. 7-10-71.
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July 11, Sunday, 1971
It was a hot night again. Beautiful moon again. Low this morning was 80 at river level. To my surprise the red muddy water hadn’t arrived yet. We went 60 miles yesterday. It finally arrived about 8:30am. 24 hours for that mud to travel 60 miles. Slower then I figured. We stopped at Spencer Canyon and walked a mile up that to some small water falls. Still a stream of water there but going down. We water skied most of the rest of the way. We had lunch at Quartermaster Canyon and too hot to do much. Had some water fights today. We cooked most of the way down to camp at mile 275 on the south side. We had a short stop to go up and see Emery Falls, which is a pretty water fall of about 30 feet. Water fall temp was 73 degrees there. River temp was 64 degrees. It was an early camp so we had a soccer game in the shallow lake with the football. That lasted about an hour and then everyone had sore legs and toes to continue on. High today was 110 on the river 121 off the river about 30 feet up. Clear day and some breeze at times.
July 12, Monday, 1971
We started up and off early by 7:15am. Hot night, low was 85 degrees at river level. The muddy water caught up with about 9:00pm last night. We were in it all day till mile 287 on the lake. No wind and the lake was a perfect mirror. We sent the people off on a bus by 10:00am. Perry and Rosemary came back with us. High today 118 off the lake. Lake was 81 degrees. Hit Kanab by 10:30pm. Clear day. So ends river trip # 6. Hiked about 6 miles.
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Emery Falls. Person for scale and the lake level was below this level. CR274.8. 7-11-71. 1418